Our Skincare Ingredients
Vedani Botanicals’ skincare oils and balms are blends of pure botanical oils and extracts, cherry-picked specifically for their skin benefiting properties.
That’s all, nothing else is added.
APRICOT KERNEL OIL (PRUNUS ARMENIACA)
A fairly light and easily absorbed soothing oil, particularly suitable for the sensitive skin types. I include it in my products because of its considerable beta-sitosterol and vitamin E content.
Beta-sitosterol is well known for its antiinflammatory property and Vitamin E is a great antioxidant.
Apricot kernel oil is rich in oleic fatty acid (Omega-9), linoleic fatty acid (Omega-6) and it also contains small amounts of alpha-linoleic fatty acid (Omega-3).
BORAGE SEED OIL (BORAGO OFFICINALIS)
Borage seed oil is lightweight and easily absorbed. Out of all seed oils it is the richest source of gamma-linolenic fatty acid (GLA), which makes it a desirable skincare ingredient. GLA, an Omega-6 fatty acid, is well known for its antiinflammatory properties.
I find borage seed oil helps to balance, soothe and restore the skin. It is important to me to source this oil directly from the oil mill, to ensure it is freshly pressed. I immediately add natural vitamin E to it to increase the antioxidant contents of the oil and protect it from oxidation.
COCOA SEED BUTTER (THEOBROMA CACAO)
Cocoa butter has a very rich texture and absorbs slowly.
I include cocoa butter in my balms for the dry skin types as it provides a protective layer which reduces water loss (TEWL) and helps prevent dehydration. It has been used traditionally to prevent or diminish stretch marks.
JOJOBA SEED OIL (SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS)
The unusual chemical composition of the jojoba oil makes it a liquid wax rather than an oil. It is similar to the skin’s natural oil – sebum – and combines with it easily.
Jojoba oil is often used in skincare products for the dry skin as it has been found to be excellent at helping to prevent dehydration. Jojoba has a reputation for being suitable for all skin types but it might feel a little too ‘heavy’ for the oily skin. In the recent years several lightweight seed oils have become available, many of which I have found to be more suited to oily/combination skins, particularly those prone to blocked pores.
Jojoba oil contains oleic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic and alpha-linolenic fatty acids, as well as rather rare icosanoic and docosenoic acid/erucic fatty acids.
POMEGRANATE SEED OIL (PUNICA GRANATUM)
Pomegranate seed oil has an unusual texture, which adds a ‘silkiness’ to skincare formulations.
It is highly prized for its regenerative properties. It is soothing to irritated skin and wonderful for dehydrated skin. I absolutely adore pomegranate seed oil, it has amazing properties. It contains a high quantity of punicic acid, a rare Omega-5 fatty acid, with outstanding skin benefits and as well as some unusual antioxidants - ellagic acid and gallic acid – just to name a few.
ROSEHIP SEED AND FRUIT PULP OIL (ROSA CANINA/ROSA RUBIGINOSA)
Rosehip oil has a worldwide reputation for its scar and hyperpigmentation reducing properties. It is commonly used in anti-ageing formulations in the skincare industry.
Rosehip oil contains impressive levels of the alpha-linolenic fatty acid (Omega-3), but it is the carotenoids that are the most desired compounds in this much sought after skin loving oil.
I have found that formulations with a high content of rosehip oil may not suit clients with the problematic skin, particularly those with acne and eczema.
SAFFLOWER SEED OIL (CARTHAMUS TINCTORIUS)
Safflower oil is a light, easily absorbed and non pore clogging oil. It has one of the highest levels of linoleic fatty acid, an Omega-6 polyunsaturated fatty acid, found in plant oil which makes it ideal for the skin prone to breakouts.
Safflower oil has a shelf life much longer than is typically observed for the oils with such a high polyunsaturated fatty acids content. I attribute this to the fair content of Vitamin E.
SEA BUCKTHORN SEED AND FRUIT OIL (HIPPOPHAE RHAMNOIDES)
Sea buckthorn oil has an intense deep orange colour, this is which indicates that it is jam packed full of skin loving beta-carotene. Sea buckthorn is credited with being nature’s most abundant source of Omega-7 fatty acid contents.
Just some of the compounds within the oil include: Omega-3 and Omega-6 essential fatty acids and the rare Omega-7 fatty acid – cis-vaccenic acid – as well as vitamins E & K, carotenoids and flavonoids.
ANTIOXIDANT VITAMIN E (TOCOPHEROL)
Natural (non GMO) vitamin E is an effective antioxidant often used in skin care products because it is believed to play a role in encouraging skin healing and scar reduction.
I find that it soothes and softens the skin and can help protect against dehydration.
It also extends the shelf life of the oils by slowing down their oxidation.
LAVENDER (LAVANDULA ANGUSTIFOLIA)
Steam distilled lavender flower essential oil is possibly the most well known best known of all essential oils. It is thought of as having a feminine aroma, however, when well skillfully blended with woods and citruses, its aroma is not as apparent and it acts as a “rounding” scent.
In aromatherapy skin care it is used to soothe and calm aiding skin issues such as acne, allergies, bruises, burns, dermatitis, grazes, insect bites, insect repellent, itching, scars, sores and stretch marks.
MANDARIN (CITRUS RETICULATA)
Expressed mandarin fruit peel essential oil, is a non-phototoxic citrus oil, known for its gentle calming ability.
In aromatherapy, mandarin essential oil is often used to aid acne, blemishes, mature skin, dull skin and scars.
VETIVER (VETIVERIA ZIZANOIDES)
Steam distilled vetiver root oil is well-known for its remarkable soothing and calming properties. Vetiver is commonly used in natural skincare and perfumery.
SEE BELOW FOR A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF:
Volatile plant oils (essential oils)
Fixed plant oils (carrier oils)
Fatty acids - a slightly more in depth look at the fixed plant oils
VOLATILE PLANT OILS
Volatile oils are more commonly known as essential oils. Essential oils such as geranium, lavender, mandarin and vetiver are used at tiny percentages in skincare as they are extremely potent. Essential oils are carefully chosen for their many skin beneficial properties, their aroma can also be a bonus.
Most of the essential oils I use are certified organic, however I sometimes use oils from wild crafted or traditionally farmed plants.
CO2 botanical extracts are obtained from the plant material using carbon dioxide. This method is often described as 'gentle' as it allows for a wide range of active chemical compounds to be extracted without the risk of heat degradation or exposure to potentially toxic solvents. Composition of the CO2 extracts depends on the type of CO2 extraction (Select or Total) and will vary.
Pesticides and other chemicals are easily extracted alongside the desirable chemical compounds. For this reason I only use organically certified CO2 extracts in order to minimise/exclude the possibility of the contaminants being present.
Vitamin E is also classed as a botanical extract. It is not available as organically certified product, however it is available as 100% natural and GMO free.
FIXED PLANT OILS
Fixed plant oils are fatty oils extracted from seeds, kernels, nuts and fruit pulps.
Oils, such as apricot, borage and jojoba are all classified as fixed oils, they are also commonly called carrier, base or vegetable oil.
These plant oils provide the cleansing and or moisturising element to the skincare oils, as well as phytosterols, vitamins and antioxidants.
The plant oils I select for my formulations are extracted with as minimal as possible processing to ensure they retain their phytonutrients and beneficial properties.
They are cold pressed are unrefined, they have not been treated with heat or artificial chemicals - they are not bleached, deodorised or winterised.
I use mainly certified organic fixed plant oils, however in some cases, I may use oils from wild crafted or traditionally farmed plants.
Selecting plant oils for skin care formulations is a real art, a fine balance. Each fixed plant oil has a unique composition of fatty acids and various other nutrients, which provide numerous skin benefits and will also influence the texture, the ‘feel’ of the product on the skin.
Fatty acids are found in fixed plant oils. They can be divided into 3 families:
Saturated, monounsaturated and polyunsaturated.
Plant oils rich in saturated fatty acids and monounsaturated have a rich consistency and are slower to absorb into the skin. They provide a thin protective “film” on the skin, this which is helpful for a dry skin which lacks lacking natural skin oils, but often too heavy for oily or normal skin.
Fatty acids are classed as either short, medium, long or very long chain.
Plant oils rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids tend to be lightweight and absorb easily into the skin. This property also plays an important part in reducing water loss from the skin.
I find plant oils rich in particular polyunsaturated fatty acids are a must in all skincare formulations. I use mainly polyunsaturated fatty acid rich plant oils for problematic skins prone to clogged pores and breakouts.
Whereas for dry skin, I combine polyunsaturated fatty acid rich oils with very long, long and medium chain saturated and monounsaturated fatty acids.
Depending on the plant oils chosen the blend will have a range of properties to aid that particular skin’s needs and concerns.
I have developed these blends using trusted well researched articles, publications and reports, which I have spent many years studying. On a practical level I have spent over 20 years making formulations for myself, family, friends and clients, who continue to use my creations year after year.
Some specific fatty acids are now commonly mentioned in media. Below, I have provided a list of fatty acids found in the skincare oil formulations. For those interested in skincare ingredients, I thought you would enjoy being able to check who is who in the fatty acids world. Each fatty acid has particular properties.
SATURATED FATTY ACIDS
Eicosanoic acid (also known as arachidic fatty acid)
MONOUNSATURATED FATTY ACIDS
Omega 7: Palmitoleic acid and cis-vaccenic acid
Omega 9: Oleic acid and docosenoic acid/erucic acid
Omega 11: Gadoleic acid/9-eicosenoic acid
POLYUNSATURATED FATTY ACIDS
Omega 3: Alpha-linolenic acid (ALA) and stearidonic acid (SDA)
Omega 5: Punicic acid (CLnA)
Omega 6: Linoleic acid (LA) and gamma-linolenic acid (GLA)
RETREATS WORKSHOPS AND CONSULTANCY
If aromatherapy, natural product formulation and perfumery interest you and you would like to learn more, please do enquire about our retreats, workshops and consultations on firstname.lastname@example.org.